Dick Locke's QHY8 CCD Camera Page
Copyright © 2008 by Dick Locke.  All Rights Reserved.  Contact and Image Use Information

This page talks about the QHY8 CCD camera and workflow.  Pictures from the camera are are here.  I acquired the QHY8 CCD camera in Sept 2008.  (I have the version sold by Starzonia.  Beware that there are multiple versions of this camera sold by vendors world-wide, so your camera may well be different than mine).

My Image Processing Workflow with the QHY8

I am using the recommended workflow in Nebulosity and then use Registar and Photoshop:

 

Camera details:   It is a large-format (APS-size) one-shot color camera with a 28mm diagonal chip size.  Some info:  * Total pixel: 3110 x 2030 * Active pixels: 3032 x 2016 * Pixel Size: 7.8um x 7.8um square * Color method: RGB BAYER film on CCD * Effective sensor area: 28.4 mm diagonal * Readout noise: 8-12 e @600 Kpixel/s * QE: 60% at green (Peak), 50% at blue and H-alpha * Microlensing on chip * Progressive Scan * ABG: -110dB * 16bit ADC with CDS and Preamp * USB2.0 High Speed interface * T-thread mounting * Rugged custom-fit Pelican carrying case * Includes both AC and 12v DC adapters * Dimensions: 3.5" x 3.5" x 2.25" * Weight: 1.2 lbs.(0.55 kg).

Additional info on the camera experience (astro geek ramblings):  I've had a few struggles getting used to the camera and the new capture/processing methods associated with a CCD.  I have upgraded from DSLR Astro-imaging, but have a lot of image processing experience.  So far I'm finding the "out of the camera" colors are more muted out of the CCD vs my DSLR, due to the use of "raw" processing I think, with the associated need for extreme stretching.  Out of the Canon DSLRs, I would do a non-linear stretch out of ImagesPlus and start with a more colorful image.  The bottom line is it took 3 deep-dive processing exercises to get a PacMan version I liked.

Updated notes:  I ran into the streaking problem some users experience when using the stock drivers.  This seems to be caused by a failure to handle activity or delays on the USB bus while downloading an image from the camera.  Some users have this problem and others don't.  (There is a posting on the qhyccd.com site that discusses this problem and shows some code that fixes it.)  Fortunately, for me this problem does not exist when using Tom's libusb drivers.  Summing up, what I have found is that Tom's drivers with Nebulosity 2.0.6 is working well and that's what I would recommend to others. The nuance is that you need to select a different camera in Nebulosity based on which drivers you use.

Earlier, outdated notes: I'm initially began using the "stock" drivers and "Nebulosity" software (v2.03b) to capture images with great success.  I tried the "beta drivers" and found the fine focus function did not work.   (Others have reported this issue does not exist with later versions of Nebulosity and I am working fine with Nebulosity 2.0.6.)  I also had an initial issue with the camera where it captured completely black images.  This turned out to be caused by the "SVHS style" cable not being plugged into the camera completely. 

Do Not Mix Driver Output:  I have found that images output from one version of the drivers versus the other are not compatible in Nebulosity when using Raw processing.

Mounting a camera lens to the QHY8: I bought an SBIG Nikon lens adaptor (SBIG CLA-7 for Nikon, part SB-CLA7NK at OPT). It did not come to focus with my 18mm Nikon lens, but did with my 55mm Nikon micro lens.  I would like to hear about other's experiences with mounting camera lenses to the QHY8, email me here.

For more info on this camera go to:  http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/QHYCCD/ and http://qhyccd.com/QHY8.html/

Here's a post on the yahoo group about power adapters:

Re: Still not clear on DC power question for QHY8

 
Dan,

Thanks for all the info. Today I ended up getting a $10 radio shack
solution consisting of

"DC Power Cord With Adaptaplug Outlet (Lighter Socket) (includes one
free adaptaplug)
&
Adaptaplug "M" 5.5mm OD and 2.1mm ID.

I tested it and it seems to work well. And I checked the polarity 3
times before plugging it in ;-) The Power Cord is rated to 5 amps
and is 8 feet long and fuse protected. The cord is labeled 300V 18awgx2f.

The plug itself is slightly longer than it needs to be so it's not
perfect, but it certainly should be good enough as a "run from DC
directly" option.

-Dick Locke


--- In QHYCCD@yahoogroups.com, Dan <dholler01@...> wrote:
>
> Hello Dick,
>
> It's not so much the half mm on the outside as it the post on middle,
> the diameter of that post is pretty critical. Also, some of the
> connectors are longer or shorter, but, with the same post OD / ID. Some
> of mind do seem a bit more loose than others. Trouble is, I got some
> that are the correct size and some that aren't:-)
>
> Here's a table which may help on the 18AWG.
>
> http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm
>
> It sounds pretty reasonable to me. Unless you really wrap it inside a
> tube with other wires, it should be fine. Power = Amperage squared x
> the wire resistance. Even if that short length were one ohm of
> resistance (which it isn't), and, if the amperage drawn were 5 amps, the
> thing would only be using about 25 watts. The wattage dissipated over
> the several feet of space in an outside environment, should be no
> problem. Might make a good dew heater, but seriously, I don't even
> think it represents close to even 1 watt per foot of length. But hey,
> wire is cheap for that length.
>
> Where the real trouble comes is connectors. Today, most use inferior
> materials (tin instead of silver or gold), thin plating (thin tin at
> that), and minimal surfaces. This can quickly generate a high
> resistance pathway. Now you're talking wasted power as heat. Sander is
> correct, solder is good. I like old binding posts myself, but, you can
> tin on some solder to the outside of the male connector, if you don't
> like soldering it. Get that .5 mm, just be careful not to over do it
> and melt the whole thing.
>
> Best wishes,
> Dan
>
>
>
>
> On Wed, 2008-09-24 at 01:49 +0000, dtlnew wrote:
> > Thanks.
> >
> > As best as I can tell the "stock" connector is 5.5mm OD and 2.1mm ID.
> > Is your "K" connector at all loose? I expect maybe multiple sizes
> > can work if you're just talking about .5mm. The QHYccd site just
> > mentions 2.1mm ID and not an OD as far as I can tell.
> >
> > The other challenge is mating the tip with wire than can handle ~5
> > amps. I don't think 18awg is good enough.
> >
> > -Dick
> >
> > --- In QHYCCD@yahoogroups.com, Dan <dholler01@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Dick,
> > >
> > > I'm using size K connectors here. 5mm OD and 2.1mm ID. But
check on the
> > > QHYccd site, its there if you search for it.
> > >
> > > Maybe one of the others can confirm thats the exact one.
> > >
> > > Best wishes,
> > > Dan
> > >
> > > On Tue, 2008-09-23 at 02:27 +0000, dtlnew wrote:
> > > > All, I want to get back to running a QHY8 without AC power, and
> > > > clarify the remaining question I have. To review, my
Starzonia camera
> > > > has a HU-120660 (AC to DC) box feeding DC into the "QHYCCD" box
> > DC-101.
> > > >
> > > > What I would like to do is run the DC-101 directly from a battery,
> > > > without plugging into AC power at all. The main issue I have is
> > > > finding a compatible tip/ring type connector. I have some
radio shack
> > > > tips and they don't seem to match the DC-101's connector exactly.
> > > >
> > > > Can anyone advise of a successful DC only input cable/tip/ring
> > > > connector to power the DC-101 box?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks in advance for any help or pointers.
.

 

 

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